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What is an Asscher Cut Diamond?

by Willyou.net * May 11, 2021

An Asscher cut diamond is a square with a length to width ratio of 1.00. An Asscher cut often resembles an Emerald cut, but in the square form instead of a rectangle. The cut features large step facets and a high crown that results in a stunning brilliance, creating the optical illusion known as the “Hall of Mirrors” effect. A well-cut Asscher diamond will appear to have concentric squares as you look down through the table, resulting from the proper positioning of the pavilion facets underneath. 

Asscher-cut-diamond-1
Asscher-cut-diamond

Asscher Cut History

The Asscher cut diamond was first produced in 1902 and named after Joseph Asscher in Amsterdam, Holland. The Asscher brothers were known as being commissioned by King Edward VII for cutting the world’s largest stone, the Cullinan, at 3,106 carats, for the English crown jewels. From there, the Asscher cut gained popularity in the 1920’s, but lost momentum and was only found in antique shops. It wasn’t until about 100 years later, in 2002, when the cut began to make a comeback, with new cut modifications, giving the cut more brilliance than original Asscher cut diamond.

Elizabeth Taylor put the Asscher cut back in the spotlight with her infamous Krupp diamond, a gift from Richard Burton. It is one of the most famous diamonds in the world, and now known as the Elizabeth Taylor diamond. Today, many celebrities also adorn Asscher cut diamonds on their fingers. 

Choosing an Asscher Cut Diamond

The Asscher cut was designed to draw the eye into the diamond, so when choosing an asscher cut, you should always select the highest quality stone to retain its brilliance. 

Best Setting for Asscher Cut Diamonds

Asscher cut diamonds require four-pronged settings due to the shape of the cut. Because of the stunning Art Deco style of the cut, an asscher diamond looks incredible in a vintage ring setting or a halo setting to add extra sparkle to the stone. 

The following cut, color and clarity guides should be taken into consideration when choosing an asscher cut diamond: 

Asscher Cut Diamond Cut Guide – (Square Emerald)

The cut attributes of a diamond contribute to its sparkle, brilliance, and bling. Most knowledgeable buyers would choose attributes from the Excellent – Very Good columns.

ExcellentVery GoodGoodFairPoor
Table %60 – 65.958 – 59.9
or
66 – 69.9
56 – 57.9
or
70 – 71.9
54 – 55.9 or
72 – 73.9
<53.9
or
>74
Depth %63 – 67.958 – 62.9
or
68 – 69.9
56 – 57.9 or
70 – 70.9
54 – 55.9 or
71 – 73.9
<53.9
or
74
GirdleVery Thin
to Slightly Thick
Very Thin
or
Thick
Very Thin
or
Very Thick
Extremely Thin
or
Extremely
Thick
CuletNoneVery SmallSmallMedium>Medium

Asscher Cut Diamond Length-to-Width Guide

A classic Asscher cut has a length-to-width ratio of 1.00.

ExcellentVery GoodGoodFairPoor
Square1.00 – 1.0291.03 – 1.051.06 – 1.08 >1.08

Asscher Cut Diamond Symmetry, Polish, Cut and Fluorescence Guide (Square Emerald)

Our experience suggests that Cut, Symmetry, Polish, and Fluorescence contributes to a diamond’s brilliance so that most buyers will choose Excellent – Very Good and Fluorescence None – Faint.

ExcellentVery GoodGoodFairPoor
CutExcellentVery GoodGoodFair – Poor
PolishExcellentVery GoodGoodFair – Poor
SymmetryExcellentVery GoodGoodFair – Poor
Fluorescence NoneFaintMediumStrong –
Very Strong

Asscher Cut Diamond Color Guide (Square Emerald)

Most buyers prefer size over color hue and will buy a diamond of G color

ExcellentVery GoodGoodFairPoor
< 0.50 ct.D – GH – IJ – KL – M > N
0.51 – 1.00 ct.D – F G – HI – JK> L
1.00 – 2.00 ct.D – FG – HI – JK> J
>2.00 ct.D – FG – HI – JK> J

Asscher Cut Diamond Clarity Guide (Square Emerald)

Most buyers prefer size over clarity cleanse and will buy a diamond of VS1 – VS2 Clarity.

ExcellentVery GoodGoodFairPoor
< 0.50 ct.FL – VS2SI1 – SI2I1 – I2> I2
0.51 – 1.00 ct.FL – VS1VS2SI1 – SI2I1 – I2 > I2
1.00 – 2.00 ct.FL – VVS2VS1 – VS2SI1 – SI2I1> I1
>2.00 ct.FL – VVS2VS1 – VS2SI1 – SI2I1> I1

Asscher Cut Diamond Certification

The Asscher cut is often times referred to as a Square Emerald cut on a diamond certification, such as GIA. It might bring about some confusion to the name of the cut, but the Asscher cut and a square Emerald cut are actually the same. The rare, Royal Asscher cut, which is a patented version of the original Asscher cut, is still offered by the GIA.

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